PFW SS14 Summary

As the editorial elite bid adieu to Paris, Fashion Week SS14 has officially come to a close. As can only be expected, Paris rounded things off in spectacular style with a wealth of dazzling shows from those cool-kids at Kenzo through to Marc Jacobs' final bow at Louis Vuitton

The home of Haute Couture certainly delivered this season, with an array of breathtaking collections putting the Ooh in Ooh La La.

Without further ado, here is our edit of the most glorious collections from PFW... Best enjoyed with a box of Ladurée macaroons, of course.

NEW OPULENCE

Paris wouldn't be Paris without a generous dosage of ooh-la luxury. This season designers took a global approach to glamour.

At Valentino, the ladylike collection was influenced by the opera, with multicultural references and intricate embroidery. The colour palette was notably darker than seasons hence, but the gilded and appliquéd dresses made up for a lack of pretty pretty pastels. It seems that Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli's success at Valentino shows no signs of slowing.

Dries Van Noten has long been an insider favourite, and this season the line is as 'wow' as it is wearable. Opening with burgundy dresses adorned in poppies and ending with a procession of baroque golden pieces, the collection feels truly fresh. Look out for those metallic ruffles on the front row come Fall fashion week. 

WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE

Transporting audiences from the urban jungle to the rainforest canopy, this season's designers appear to have a bout of jungle fever.

Inspired by French artist Henri Rousseau, Christophe Lemaire's superlative Hermés collection offers an elegant take on jungle floral. Alongside fluid printed pieces, signature buttery leathers were interpreted in forest green, claret and sunset orange. The runway was transformed into a vibrant jungle, embracing the Hermés woman's adventurous side. A wild success, as far as we are concerned.

Moncler often pull out all the stops when it comes to setting, and this season is no exception. For SS14, Giambattista Valli turned his attention to urban Africa with a runway bedecked in vines and a soundtrack of roaring sirens. Naturally, such a powerful setting wills the designer to deliver something special, and Valli did just that with signature sleek pieces in luxurious fabrics and contemporary prints.

ART ATTACK

If the Paris shows are anything to go by, SS14 is all about embracing your inner artiste.

Karl Lagerfeld went beyond the conventions of Chanel with a vibrant line abundant in Pantone shades and pop-art detailing. In keeping with his vision, Lagerfled decorated the Grand Palais with his own artwork, created over the Summer in preparation for the show. The collection itself was extensive and expressive, with artful craftsmanship and powerful poster paint shades. Fashion and art have never been quite so entwined.

With such hype surrounding her work, the industry always puts great pressure on Phoebe Philo to deliver at Céline. Following Winters' curiously chic laundry checks and fluted skirts, you could be forgiven for expecting something a little more restrained this season. With Céline, though, you should know to expect the unexpected. Once again,  Philo delivered a wholly unique collection, breaking new ground for the high end Parisian house in seeking inspiration from graffiti and global street culture.

A label plagued by controversy, this season it appears that the house of Galliano is back with a vengeance. Taking direction from Bill Gaytten, the Spring collection at Galliano has had the fashion crowd abuzz. Standout pieces include neoprene skater dresses in eye-popping shades, razor sharp suiting and futuristic visors by Stephen Jones. The collection is youthful and directional with a charming cartoon-ish palette.

FRONT ROW THEATRICS

Now for the main event: the front row theatrics.

No stranger to drama, Jean-Paul Gaultier opted for a talent show themed performance. Models danced down the runway, showcasing Gaultier's eccentric attire as a panel of judges held up score cards. Witty frivolity at its finest, JPG always puts the fun in fashion week.

There really is no stopping Kenzo now, and with a dominant presence across the globe, this season designers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon chose to take a stand against overfishing. The aquatic influence was crytal clear, with the runway situated parallel to a column of circular fountains. The collection was full of creative, clever pieces with the melted fish motif sure to pick up where this season's evil eye left off.

The name on everyone's lips this PFW was Rick Owens. The American born designer is all about challenging convention, but there was no preparing for his Vicious Women show for SS14. Never before has a designer instructed his models to look as ugly as possible on the runway, but, given the success of the show, maybe more should. Ugly in theory, beautiful in practice, the collection was modeled by a dance troupe of women with the most incredible, strong bodies, each one bringing a new dimension to the neutral draped pieces. 

 

FUTURE CLASSICS

While on one hand you have the showmen, on the other you have the new icons, quietly confident in their own unique formula.

One such example is, of course, Isabel Marant The queen of insouciant Parisian cool, Marant is very much the woman of the moment. This season Madame Marant went back to Bohemia, with lace miniskirts, gypsy blouses and gilded lace-up gladiators. The show was modern and sexy, brought up to date by lashings of leather and tailoring. Instantly recognisable and wholly covetable, this collection is sure to stand the test of time.

Alexander Wang's work at Balenciaga has been as criticised as it has praised. It must be noted, though, that Wang is still finding his footing: after all, he has some pretty big shoes to fill. For Spring/Summer, Wang brought a touch of edge to classic Balenciaga pieces, experimenting with innovative fabrics and textures for a minimal but modern look. With each collection, he is subtly reinventing the Parisian house, and this collection is full of promise.

For a girlish take on timeless tailoring, look to Carven, where signature two-piece suits were re-imagined in sugary organza.  

MARC LEAVES HIS MARK

Following a decade at the helm of Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs has officially stepped down from his position at the Parisian powerhouse. Quite possibly the busiest man in fashion, Marc Jacobs is leaving LV to focus on his own eponymous brand. But what a way to go.

Jacobs is undoubtedly leaving on a high, his collection serving as a retrospective of his work at Vuitton to date. Showing in the dazzling Carrée of the Louvre, the setting was a mélange of Jacobs' finest moments, this time re-imagined  in funereal black. 

The models wore incredible black headdresses, each one a showgirl in this beautiful midnight carnival.

Hats- or headdresses- off to Marc on this one, he will be missed.  

NEW KIDS ON THE BLOCK

Nostalgia to one side, it is time to focus on what's next for fashion in Paris.

Though London prides itself on emerging talent, Paris is not far behind, and this season there are a number of new names to note.

Danish designer Ilja presented a collection of slick dresses, with the sateen charcoal minidress a particular highlight. Similarly directional was Hexa by Kuho where sharp dresses were matched with sci-fi hair styling.

The collection at Jacquemus was a little Alexander Wang, a little Simone Rocha and a little Lacoste with futuristic tennis skirts, pastel pink crop tops and crisp white plimsolls.

 Ooh la la indeed.

What's Up Stud?

Mmm it's going to be a scorcher this weekend, so I have spent the majority of today trawling the internet looking for all sorts of ludicrously scimpy outfits that I can wear while i'm still young and fun and all that stuff.

It's my new way of convincing myself that it's okay to spend nearly £200 on one Zara spree... After all, girls, this is the best we are going to look, so may as well make the most of it.

While thinking of a nice little post to do today, I had a little browse on Zoe Karssen's website and found a rather apt sweater (here) "Live Fast Cause It Won't Last", which I feel pretty much sums up my warblings. Beside the sweater was this killer tee and I decided to do a post featuring this Suicide Blonde tee with some sexy punky accessories.

If I could afford this outfit (which I can't... just so you know!) I would most certainly be slinging it in my suitcase for my upcoming trip to New York where I shall be visiting the Punk: Chaos to Couture exhibition at The Met. How chic... How apt!

Hope you like and hope you are all enjoying the sun!

1. New York designer Joomi Lim is pretty much an obsession of mine at the moment, and this London Calling necklace with pearls and mixed metals is just the thing to jazz up this sexy slouchy t-shirt. I adore pieces that marry silver, gold and gunmetal together seamlessly, and this necklace 100% does that. I am such a statement necklace freak, but this one needs to be mine.

2. When I first spotted this Suicide Blonde varsity tee by Zoe Karssen I was a little bit smitten. It's such a relaxed, cool and fresh tee with a gorgeously flattering neckline. It is around €60, but it is worth it for Zoe Karssen tees are such great quality- so fine and soft.

3. I recently did an interview with Katie Canvin, the lovely co-founder of the glorious Austique boutiques in London, and she tipped me off about this amazing jewellery designer she found in NYC. Jacqui Aiche do the most gorgeously delicate body jewellery including this bracelet ring chain, which will hopefully be coming to Austique very soon. Stay tuned London ladies, or keep checking their website if you're no local.

4. Rebecca Minkoff handbags are another NYC staple, and this iconic MAC clutch in basic black with gleaming golden hardware is a great investment. These handbags are such gorgeous quality, and what I really love about them is that not everyone has one. You can grab this gorgeous number at Atelier-To-Go. If you don't, I will, so get them before they all go. 

5. Boticca jewellery is my one-stop-online-shop for quirky, beautiful jewellery at reasonably accessible pricepoints. These shark tooth bangles from UK based designer Beau & Arrow are just edgy enough to add a little punky punch to this über cool look. 

6. This Zara white "skort" is not to everyone's liking, but I love the directional origami-esque front, perfect for smartening up a casual tee. They also come in black and make for a great wardrobe staple with a little fashion-forward touch.

7. Last but not least, the most beautiful shoes I have ever seen... Well, this season at least. These Balenciaga motorcycle wedges are available at Matches for a cool £600 but they are so, so, so, so divine. Is it possible to be attracted to a shoe? 

Paris Fashion Week: Balenciaga

I make absolutely no secret of the fact that Paris Fashion Week is my favourite of all Fashion Weeks. I know I should say it's London, just to be kind, but in all brutal honesty the designers that show at Paris Fashion Week are far more up my street.

This weekend i've been totally glued to Style.Com, Showstudio and Catwalking, simply perusing the catwalk shows, compiling the wardrobe of my dreams. This season it's made up of Dries Van Noten feathered dresses, Lanvin Oxford flats and power-shoudered jackets by Balmain. I have yet to feast my eyes on the Céline collection but I fear that it will be very bad for my health. It's never nice to want something you know you'll never have.

Of all the shows thus far, there is one that has had me torn: Balenciaga. I have always been fanatical about Balenciaga- the first fashion history book I read from cover to cover was a book about the brand, and ever since I have been watching every move at this eponymous Parisian house, particularly obsessed with the fantastic work of Nicolas Ghesquiere during his time at the helm of the label.

His work was always contemporary and covetable, while still drawing on the rich heritage of the couturier. Nicolas Ghequiere was also responsible for one of my most adored collections ever, where he sent models down the catwalk wearing big, architectural cocoon coats with super-skinny pants and exaggerated riding hats.

His departure from Balenciaga late last year, following a devastatingly beautiful final collection for SS13, sent shockwaves through the industry. While i'm not one to gossip, I was initially intrigued as to why Nicolas departed, but like the rest of the us fashion-crazed lot, I was far more excited at the prospect of who would be taking over his role.

When it was announced that Alexander Wang, the New York designer that has taken the industry by storm, would be Nicolas' successor, many fashion editors were brimming with excitement at the prospect of Wang's streetwise, sporty aesthetic infiltrating the classic elegance that defines Balenciaga.

There is no denying that a great deal of pressure fell on Alexander Wang's shoulders for his debut AW13 collection, and while in some respects he did deliver, in others I felt he fell ever so slightly short.

The collection played very much on the iconic and celebrated shapes and styles of the house of Balenciaga- slim tapered pants, cocoon shapes and rounded shoulders were central in the collection, modernised with unusual fabrics and slightly more sculptural detailing.

Though there was a great emphasis on slim cigarette pants in this collection, which was a departure from the more feminine attributes of the Balenciaga brand, the true spirit of Alexander Wang's modern style did not quite come through.

Perhaps it would have been nice to see a more futuristic approach, as is often seen in his own-brand collection, or even something rather more innovative. While this collection was totally lovely, full of mesmerising pieces that I would be more than proud to call my own, it lacked a certain punch that I really hoped Alexander Wang could deliver.

Many critics have compared Wang's debut to the early shows of Ghesquiere, though I personally do not feel this is fair. I think that, on the whole, Wang has done a fair old job. Perhaps he is simply scared of breaking too much from the boundaries within this couture fashion house- the age-old styles and touches that have worked so well for so very long.

He has, in all fairness, brought a certain modernity to the looks. Standouts include fabulous flat leather boots adding a fresh dimension to angular tops and coated knitwear offering a contemporary tactility to simple balloon crop tops.

There are a million and one things, to reiterate, that I would wear in this collection: the pointed t-bar courts, the plunge neck dress in a scratchy monochromatic print and, of course, the delectable crop tops and artfully tailored trousers with meticulous origami detailing.

There is no denying that a great deal of work and thought has gone into this debut, and in many ways it has paid off. From a buying perspective, i'm sure that this collection will be a great success, for it is wholly wearable and sophisticated. From an editorial perspective, it is not as strong and enticing as previous collections have been, which is somewhat disappointing.

All my moaning to one side, I am a huge admirer of Alexander Wang's work and I certainly do feel that there is a great deal of promise within the collection.  and I hope that Alexander Wang can break from his apparent restraint this season to entirely reinvent the label in as effective and unique a way as his predecessor.

(images courtesy of Catwalking)